A Remarkable Bite: Yamagata Soba at Mannosuke

Surrounded by rice fields, Mannosuke Iwanuma occupies a handsome old farmhouse. It is the kind of place that makes you imagine how a prosperous farming family once lived. An old sunken hearth remains, though it no longer seems to be in use. Most of the seating is on tatami, with a couple of tables as well. There is also a generous selection of treats to take home, enough to catch your eye before you even sit down.

I came for the juwari soba, made entirely from buckwheat. Only ten servings are available each day, so getting there early pays off.

When the noodles arrived, the first thing that struck me was the size of the serving. Then I took a bite.

These thick noodles have a wonderfully satisfying chew. Firm, but never tough; substantial, without being dry or crumbly. They spring back gently with each bite. Thoroughly chilled, with a clean buckwheat aroma, they taste like something made with real care. One mouthful makes you want another.

The regular dipping sauce is lovely, but my personal recommendation is the hot duck broth.

Dip the cold noodles into it, and they soften just enough to reveal a different texture: a little more tender, a little more yielding, still with plenty of chew. It is the same soba, yet quite a different pleasure. I kept going back for another bite, and that daunting mound of noodles steadily disappeared.

For dessert, I had the soba tea pudding. Not too sweet, with a roasted buckwheat fragrance that filled my mouth. A thoroughly satisfying finish.

The next time I crave Yamagata-style soba in Miyagi, I know where I will be heading. For anyone exploring the soba restaurants of Tohoku, this is a place well worth seeking out.